Oh I am so thoroughly sick of screwing up URLs with stray characters. Once again: One of the best BF travel stories ever - on Pocket Tourists: http://tinyurl.com/gj6f4 It's also the first article on the BF homepage - scroll down. Lynette Lynette Chiang aka The Galfromdownunder Bike Friday Adventurette http://www.galfromdownunder.com Cell: 541-513-7711